In the wilds, few bakkies give as pliant and confident a ride as an Isuzu. |
NEWSFLASH for 4x4 drivers planning a weekend away in scenic
Lesotho: you can drive up Sani Pass in any sedan with decent road clearance — you really don’t need a 4x4 unless it is
raining heavily.
The days when the local 4x4 club could request the road maintenance
workers not to fill in the gullies that formed after every downpour are long
gone.
Instead, Chinese contractors have now tarred the Lesotho side of
Sani and South African contractors are maintaining in very good condition the
famous hairpins on the South African side.
While a well-maintained Sani Pass is very good for the town of Underberg’s economy,
it only presents a challenge to 4x4 drivers after a serious snow or rain storm,
turning the so-called “Mother of All Passes” into the Mother Of All Yawns for
people who know what the diff lock does.
The good news for those who like to engage low gear on a scenic pass is that Ongeluksnek still does what Sani Pass did — providing unparalleled views, a challenging drive and a rare stamp in your passport to prove how intrepid you are.
What’s in a name?
To find Ongeluksnek, or “accident pass” on Google maps, you will
have to split the name into two parts: "Ongeluks" and "Nek".
The pass was named, by the way, after one of the Griqua trekkers died from a gun-shot. The history of the Griquas, who farmed great tracks of the Free State, show the Voortrekkers could raid cattle at least as well as any Basutho or Zulu impi, and eventually British missionaries convinced the Griqua leader Adam Kok III it would be better to avoid war with the settlers — although some would call this not convincing, but conspiring in the best interest of the Boers, and not the Griquas.
The pass was named, by the way, after one of the Griqua trekkers died from a gun-shot. The history of the Griquas, who farmed great tracks of the Free State, show the Voortrekkers could raid cattle at least as well as any Basutho or Zulu impi, and eventually British missionaries convinced the Griqua leader Adam Kok III it would be better to avoid war with the settlers — although some would call this not convincing, but conspiring in the best interest of the Boers, and not the Griquas.
Adam Kok III (Photo: |
The outcome was the same — the Voortrekkers dispossed the Griquas
of their land and Kok lead 3 000 of his now landless followers, their possessions
piled on 300 ox-wagons from Philippolis in the Southern Free State over the
Drakensberg into the Eastern Cape from 1861 to 1862.
The Griquas were successful farmers and reportedly took with them
20 000 head both of cattle and sheep. This long convoy descended down
Ongeluksnek into the Eastern Cape and the pass reputedly got its name because
one of Kok’s party accidentally shot himself there. The area in the Eastern Cape
where the Griquas settled became known as Griqualand East, and the town they
built is still known as Kokstad.
They went down the virgin mountain sides skidding on branches
strapped to the wheels of their ox-wagons and the hard wood blocks of the brakes
locked to the wheels.
We want up the bulldozed but overgrown pass in the comfort of two
Isuzu double cabs, powered by the new 2,5- and 3-litre engines, both with rear
differential locks and a low range.
Low range, high clearance
When the pass is wet, you will need the low range both to go up and
come down, for the average gradient is 1:9, making Ongeluksnek Pass the seventh
steepest passes in South Africa.
High ground clearance is another must on this track, as sections
have deep ruts and these steeper sections become very slippery after even a
light spat.
The pass is also popular with offroad bikers and the feared
concrete pipe that has jutted high above the road to become the undoing of many
a rider, is now half-buried in sand again.
We went up in the new Isuzu bakkie, and being lucky with a crystal clear day and no rain until we were well above the cloud, could get away using only diff lock for great sections of the jeep track.
En route, we marveled again how Japan's specialist ute builder manages to maintain such a plaint ride despite a stiff suspension. Try what we did in Toyota's bumpy Hilux, and you'd have to hold yourself off the ceiling.
We went up in the new Isuzu bakkie, and being lucky with a crystal clear day and no rain until we were well above the cloud, could get away using only diff lock for great sections of the jeep track.
En route, we marveled again how Japan's specialist ute builder manages to maintain such a plaint ride despite a stiff suspension. Try what we did in Toyota's bumpy Hilux, and you'd have to hold yourself off the ceiling.
Pack for icy winds
Pack for all seasons. |
If you make it to the top, there is no cosy pup waiting. If that’s
what you’re after, pack the sedan and head to Sani’s convivial highest pub in
South Africa.
Drivers who like to select low gear and lock the diffs can pack the
tent and head to Matatiele.
Mountains make weather and like anywhere in the Drakensberg,
travellers need to be prepared for icy, nights and wet winds at a moment’s
notice.
High in Lesotho there is no wood for fires, so pack gas to heat
water and food.
Come with Explore
The smooth part of Ongeluksnek Pass. |
The cost per vehicle is R500, which includes lunch on top of the
world, 4x4 tips from expert instructors, recovery equipment on standby, a photo
compilation of the trip and subscription to The Witness.
Each trip’s itinerary is tailored to the group’s requests and
allows for camping or sleeping in a B&B. (B&B tariffs not included in
the costs)
To book space on this horizon-expanding journey, send an e-mail to
alwynjsviljoen@gmail.com.