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Tuesday, December 29, 2015

Follow in the Griqua's trails

In the wilds, few bakkies give as pliant and confident a
ride as an Isuzu.
NEWSFLASH for 4x4 drivers planning a weekend away in scenic Lesotho: you can drive up Sani Pass in any sedan with decent road clearance — you really don’t need a 4x4 unless it is raining heavily.
The days when the local 4x4 club could request the road maintenance workers not to fill in the gullies that formed after every downpour are long gone.
Instead, Chinese contractors have now tarred the Lesotho side of Sani and South African contractors are maintaining in very good condition the famous hairpins on the South African side.
While a well-maintained Sani Pass is very good for the town of Underberg’s economy, it only presents a challenge to 4x4 drivers after a serious snow or rain storm, turning the so-called “Mother of All Passes” into the Mother Of All Yawns for people who know what the diff lock does.

The good news for those who like to engage low gear on a scenic pass is that Ongeluksnek still does what Sani Pass did — providing unparalleled views, a challenging drive and a rare stamp in your passport to prove how intrepid you are.

What’s in a name?

To find Ongeluksnek, or “accident pass” on Google maps, you will have to split the name into two parts: "Ongeluks" and  "Nek".
The pass was named, by the way, after one of the Griqua trekkers died from a gun-shot. The history of the Griquas, who farmed great tracks of the Free State, show the Voortrekkers could raid cattle at least as well as any Basutho or Zulu impi, and eventually British missionaries convinced the Griqua leader Adam Kok III it would be better to avoid war with the settlers — although some would call this not convincing, but conspiring in the best interest of the Boers, and not the Griquas.
Adam Kok III
(Photo: pzacad.pitzer.edu)
The outcome was the same — the Voortrekkers dispossed the Griquas of their land and Kok lead 3 000 of his now landless followers, their possessions piled on 300 ox-wagons from Philippolis in the Southern Free State over the Drakensberg into the Eastern Cape from 1861 to 1862.
The Griquas were successful farmers and reportedly took with them 20 000 head both of cattle and sheep. This long convoy descended down Ongeluksnek into the Eastern Cape and the pass reputedly got its name because one of Kok’s party accidentally shot himself there. The area in the Eastern Cape where the Griquas settled became known as Griqualand East, and the town they built is still known as Kokstad.
They went down the virgin mountain sides skidding on branches strapped to the wheels of their ox-wagons and the hard wood blocks of the brakes locked to the wheels.
We want up the bulldozed but overgrown pass in the comfort of two Isuzu double cabs, powered by the new 2,5- and 3-litre engines, both with rear differential locks and a low range.

Low range, high clearance

When the pass is wet, you will need the low range both to go up and come down, for the average gradient is 1:9, making Ongeluksnek Pass the seventh steepest passes in South Africa.
High ground clearance is another must on this track, as sections have deep ruts and these steeper sections become very slippery after even a light spat.
The pass is also popular with offroad bikers and the feared concrete pipe that has jutted high above the road to become the undoing of many a rider, is now half-buried in sand again.
We went up in the new Isuzu bakkie, and being lucky with a crystal clear day and no rain until we were well above the cloud, could get away using only diff lock for great sections of the jeep track.
En route, we marveled again how Japan's specialist ute builder manages to maintain such a plaint ride despite a stiff suspension. Try what we did in Toyota's bumpy Hilux, and you'd have to hold yourself off the ceiling. 

Pack for icy winds

Pack for all seasons.
If you make it to the top, there is no cosy pup waiting. If that’s what you’re after, pack the sedan and head to Sani’s convivial highest pub in South Africa.
Drivers who like to select low gear and lock the diffs can pack the tent and head to Matatiele.
Mountains make weather and like anywhere in the Drakensberg, travellers need to be prepared for icy, nights and wet winds at a moment’s notice.
High in Lesotho there is no wood for fires, so pack gas to heat water and food.

Come with Explore

The smooth part of Ongeluksnek Pass.
We will be hosting another two-day self-drive 4x4 trip for five cars to Matatiele, from where we will explore the Bushman caves at Ongeluksnek, learn about the fauna and flora in Lesotho’s pastoral highlands and expand the limits of our 4x4 driving skills with expert instructors to ensure no damage to the track or vehicle.
The cost per vehicle is R500, which includes lunch on top of the world, 4x4 tips from expert instructors, recovery equipment on standby, a photo compilation of the trip and subscription to The Witness.
Each trip’s itinerary is tailored to the group’s requests and allows for camping or sleeping in a B&B. (B&B tariffs not included in the costs)

To book space on this horizon-expanding journey, send an e-mail to alwynjsviljoen@gmail.com.