Search This Blog

Wednesday, September 11, 2013

Do's and don'ts of turbo's

Kurt Volmink is a rare breed of backyard mechanic
KURT Volmink is one of a very rare breed of backyard mechanic, for he insists on fitting turbos as specified by the original equipment manufacturer.
“We use Garretts by Honeywell, and a big up to the new distributors who have halved the prices from what they were a year ago, from about R18 000 to R9 000. More guys can now afford to experience the addictive joys of boost,” he said.
A self-taught drifting enthusiast, Volmink also founded PMB Drifters, and has fitted “many turbos” for himself and fellow enthusiasts.
Witness Wheels asked him his dos and don’ts for fitting after-market turbos.
“The dos are easy. Decide what you want the turbo for — is it for drifting, racing or commuting?
“Then have guys who themselves drift or race or commute fit the turbo, for they will have made all the mistakes on their own expense.
“Second and very important, use the best oil for the application and then change it every 5 000 km. Oil does not just lubricate a turbo, but also removes heat. Without clean oil suited to the job, the turbo’s bearings will heat up, causing that white smoke people see. Eventually, everything will seize and shear.
“Third, add new brakes that can help stop all the new power you have.”
He advised that a big turbo is best for drag racing. It delivers lots of power in the mid-range.
For drifting, a medium-size turbo or even bi-turbos make for a good power curve without turbo lag. For commuting, turbos with adjusting blades — the so-called variable vanes — can deliver better fuel economy if the driver uses the extra power at low revolutions to maintain momentum.
“But boost is addictive and few drivers can resist putting foot once the turbo is in,” Volmink said.
Volmink fully agrees with Chris Kambouris, managing director at Turbo Direct, who advises all turbo users in an introductory video to “insist on genuine products every time”.
“While many companies offer to repair or rebuild damaged turbochargers, the chances of an incorrectly repaired turbo performing poorly or failing again are exceptionally high,” states Kambouris.
He said while many suppliers offer “European spec” after-market turbos, they are not worth the double outlay of first buying then repairing.
“Time and time again these fake or knock-off reproductions have proven to be unreliable and more costly in the end.”
Asked about repairing a turbo, Volmink said it was simply not worth it.

“It will just break again. Put in a new Garrett and then keep the oil fresh,” he said.

Turbos fail because of:

• dirty oil: this is the slow killer that will cook the bearings.
• no lubrication: the oil does not get through because of slag in the tiny turbo galleries.
• excessive operating conditions: the engine’s revolution limiter will not stop the boost.