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Monday, December 23, 2013

In Africa, go south for best taxis and buses

A typical taxi rank in Uganda is not for 
the novice traveller. 
PHOTO: ChrisinUganda.wordpress.com
COUCH surfing has been around since 1999 and now have more than five million members, all of whom joined under the lofty ideal of exchanging cultures while crashing on someone’s couch for free.
Using public transport to get to that couch is always an adventure in Africa. We asked couch surfer Emmyht, a 53-year-old mother who travelled solo through 15 African states to South Africa, to rate her wheeled experiences.

Q: Would you rate South Africa’s taxis/buses/trains as average, the worst, or the best you’ve been on?
Couch surfer Emmyht in Uganda on her way to track
Mountain Gorillas in the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.
In Uganda, chickens are ever-present,
making the question not why,
but how did the chicken cross the road?
I have not been on the trains, but as for buses and
taxis in Africa, South Africa has the easiest and most hassle free. Actually, compared to the rest of Africa I have travelled, it is a relief.

Q: Which countries have the worst taxis/buses/trains?

The worst were in West Africa — lots of breakdowns, awful roads and challenging border crossings in the jungle.

Q: What special moment did you experience with us South African locals?

Many. Some of my best experiences are simply enjoying every day life; the special part is the company and the conversation I have had the privilege and pleasure to keep.


Q: Did we ‘seffricans’ manage to make you feel safe, help with the route, planning, carry the luggage?

Yes, yes, yes and yes, much more so than in any other country — although I can carry my own luggage! People have been absolutely amazing and have made my travels enjoyable, educational and the info has been gratefully appreciated. I am very, very lucky. I have surfed with astounding people … far more interesting than myself … I am definitely the dullard in the dale.


Q: How would you rate South Africa’s ablutions en route, as average, the worst, the best you’ve been on?

Oh, by far the best — running water, toilets flush and even in most cases — toilet paper!

Q: Which countries have the worst ablutions?

Again, West Africa — most travel breaks on the road are a matter of pulling over to the side of the road and using the bush toilet. That is where you learn toilet paper is like the American Express Card: Never leave home without it, ditto hand sanitiser. Oh, and that you never eat fruit you can’t peel.

Q: Would you advise your ageing mother and teenage nieces to follow in your footsteps and why/why not?

Well, I am the ageing mother and my nieces are no longer teenagers. I’d recommend they travel through South Africa and East Africa, especially southern Africa. It was all very easy, at least to me. But I recommend going with a travel buddy, especially if you are a woman. Also, part of travel is sharing the experience. I am going solo, and it is a bit rough and isolating. But in West Africa, no. At least not solo. Border crossings are remote, roads are bad, border guards are tricky, visas are expensive and you cannot get them at the borders in most cases if you are going over land.