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Tuesday, July 23, 2013

India's lost temple in Mpumalanga

A ruined karppam built by Hindus that now lays forgotten in Mpumalanga.
INDIANS in KwaZulu-Natal are slowly realising that their earliest ancestors did not land as indentured labourers on the Truro in Durban harbour in 1860, but had been arriving in dhows to trade all over southern Africa perhaps thousands of of years earlier.
The best proof of this, say some, are a beautifully stacked stone edifice on and below Mpumalanga’s escarpment.
Hindus polled by Witness Wheels agree the ancient monument at Blouboskraal river looks very much like the left half of the Hindu aum sign.
Mainstream archaeologists have, however, long been hesitant to refer to the artistically scalloped stone walls as anything other than a cattle “kraal”.
One expert who harboured no doubts that ruins and shrines along Mpumalanga’s escarpment were built by Indians is contentious Cape Town historian and linquist Doctor Cyril Hromnik.
“It is not an aum sign but a karppam, the sanctum of a temple,” he informed Witness Wheels.
Hromnik achieved notoriety in the 1980s when he stated that Tamils from south India, called Komatis, had settled in Mpumalanga more than 2 000 years ago to mine gold. Hromnik said the Komatis built shrines, temples, astronomical observatories and stone-walled sacred precincts, and left their name on places like Komatipoort as well as their genes in the Quena descendants from intermarriages with the Kung, or Bushmen women.
“The early 13th century is when the earliest Nguni arrived south of the Limpopo. By that time the Indian trade in southern Africa was almost 2 000 years old, and their Otentottu [mixed] Quena progeny [called Hottentot by the Dutch and misnamed Khoehhoe by the ideological archaeology and history academics] were the owners of this land,” stated Hromnik.
Apartheid archeology, already strained to breaking point to defend the view that whites and blacks had arrived in the same era in South Africa, but from different directions, would have none of Hromnik’s blunt statement. They read this to mean that actually, it was Indians who first colonised southern Africa.
But Hromnik speaks about gold prospecting, mining and intermarriages with the local Kung. “Indians never colonised anybody, but their quest for gold spurred trade and technological progress in many parts of the world, including southern Africa,” he said.
Academic opposition against these views are slowly waning. The Mapungubwe website these days says of the people who built the ancient kingdom: “Unfortunately, the inhabitants’ identity remains a mystery since this part of history goes back before the written record and no known oral traditions can be recorded over a period of a thousand years, therefore the inhabitants are merely known as the ‘Mapungubweans’. No Mapungubweans ever existed, says Dr. Hromnik. Only Dravidian Indians and the Otentottu-Quena were involved in the development of the religious Mapungubwe hill complex.
And the University of Pretoria, which had for decades hidden in a drawer the tiny gold rhino that provided shining, symbolic proof of an ancient Indo-Quena civilisation before Verwoerd’s apartheid, now states that small, red Indian trade beads are “the chief feature of the many hundreds of thousands of beads in its Mapungubwe collection”.
The karppam stone structure at Blouboskraal just off the Schoemanskloof N4 road at Blouboskraal river requires either forking out R51 per car at SA’s second most expensive toll gate at Machadodorp, or following the GPS prompts to drive SA’s worst — and most scenic — alternative route along the Elandsriver.
This route is a few kilometres shorter, but can only to be driven in a high bakkie as it is not a road, but a trail that was simply graded down the area’s steep hillsides. While a 4x2 will get one down, difflock at least will be needed to get back up. Another alternative is to take the Farrefontein road, which adds 12 km to the journey with the real danger of cracked windscreens from stones thrown up by the trucks that avoid their R387 toll fee by using this route.
For a local guide to escarpment activities, 
phone EdgeAdventures at 071 205 1847.
Tour Barberton’s mines with Andrea at 0 79 180 1488.
Experience Kaapsehoop with Pierre at 072 267 6130.